I quit my job and took another. There was a week in between jobs, so, impulsively, I booked a ticket to Hong Kong - in no small part so I could say to my soon-to-be-former coworkers with an air of world-savvy pomp and mystery, "Oh, tomorrow is my last day here, then I'm off to Hong Kong for a week." God damn, I'm cool.
The less egomaniacal reason for the trip was to visit my cousin Dan and his wife Kelly - two cool cats who moved to HK a couple of months ago for Dan's job. I was envious and impressed that they made the move, which they did with much less fanfare than I would have. (My move would've followed months of goodbye parties, melodrama, and more than one burnt bridge.)
They're also recently married, completely level-headed, don't speak a word of Cantonese, and they're kosher - a major problem if you're going to be living in a place where the three basic food groups are shrimp paste, animal lard, and minced pork. Being kosher (or vegetarian for that matter) in Hong Kong is like being sober in Ireland.
Dan and Kelly are also healthy and athletic - marathon runners to be sure. Another reason why HK was an interesting choice, given that the air is thickly choked with pollution (much of it produced in China and windswept into HK, where it settles). Immediately upon arrival, grit coats your mouth, throat, and sinuses. Dark mucus, dyed by the haze, hardens up your nasal cavities - it's not uncommon to see people on the street hacking up wads of brown phlegm and shoot enormous snot rockets onto the sidewalk (almost hitting my feet on a couple of occasions). My first night at their apartment, I thought their place was overshadowed by another condo complex, given the large, dark wall outside their window. In the morning, when the air was clearer, I was shocked to see they have a beautiful, unobstructed view of hills and mountains.
I'm getting ahead of myself. Technically, Day 1 was spent on a plane. Because of the 16-hour trip (plus 13-hour time difference), I left in the morning on Saturday and arrived late Sunday night. Losing a day sucks, especially in the soul-crushing limbo of long air travel. But it could've been much, much worse - my flight was, dare I say it?, awesome!
I'm convinced that Cathay Pacific Airways' board of directors is a secret cabal comprised of my grandparents, my kindergarten teacher, and other well-wishers who want to take good care of me and keep me cozy and well-fed. The economy seats are ergonomically comfy, spaced apart, and equipped with an entertainment system that kept me away from my iPod and books. I was able to watch all the things I've been curious about but too embarrassed to put on the Netflix queue shared by my wife: The Incredible Hulk, Speed Racer, The Forbidden Kingdom, Indiana Jones/Crystal Skull, Hancock, half a season of 24... I even lingered my gaze at my seatmate's viewing of Mamma Mia. Good times.
I had also never eaten better on a plane: braised catfish with miso paste, deep-fried pork in sweet and sour sauce, tasty desserts, neverending snacks like granola bars and Cup O' Noodles... couple that with all the free wine I could drink (which is a lot) and I was almost sad to disembark.
I'm glad I did finally drag myself away from the plane and onto land. Hong Kong ended up being wonderfully enjoyable and cool, a place that is different and adventurous and yet accessible and recognizable.
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